The Old Women and the Miraculous Water

While we were sitting among the ruins, two old women, bent and frail, hobbled up from the town. One of them was sick and had come to find a tiny stream among the wild plants growing near the broken walls. She believed that if she drank just a few drops of this water, she would feel better. The soldiers found the stream, but the water was muddy and dirty. The old woman drank some from a shell, and after a short time, she said she felt much better. She left, convinced that the water had magical healing powers. I didn’t know where this belief came from, but it was common among Turks, Greeks, Bulgarians, and Albanians. Instead of going to doctors, people often bring the sick to this spot to drink the water and save on medical bills.

The Church of St. Clement

Not far from the ruins stands a small, old church called St. Clement. It is made of thin red bricks stacked on their sides, and the tower is short and octagonal. There is another St. Clement church farther away, but the Turks took it over and turned it into a mosque. The Christians had to build a new one. Inside, the church is dark and damp, and it smells mysterious. Only a little light comes through the high, cobwebbed windows. The icons and silver decorations are old and not in great condition. The priest who showed me around hinted that if I wanted to take something, I could have it in exchange for a suitable gift, but I wasn’t interested in buying anything. It’s possible that this church was built on the site of a Roman temple. I noticed two Roman pillars, and outside, I found a marble slab with signs of a Roman inscription Istanbul Tour Guides.

The Beautiful Lake of Ochrida

Lake Ochrida is large, and its far edge is just visible on clear days. The lake area has some lovely wooded places, and on small peninsulas, there are Greek and Bulgarian monasteries. In these monasteries, the monks pray to God while also holding grudges against other Christians.

Entering Albania

The Journey Begins

After leaving Ochrida, I entered Albania. In one day of horseback riding, I passed from Bulgarian villages to Greek villages, and by night, I was fully in Albanian territory.

The Road to Struga

The first part of the journey was along the northern shore of Lake Ochrida, heading toward the town of Struga. The road was broad but dusty, and it was common to meet cattle, mules carrying charcoal, and horse riders along the way.